When people think of Chinatown in Los Angeles, most immediately picture San Gabriel, Monterey Park, or Rowland Heights. However, today, I want to introduce Old Chinatown, located in downtown LA. This unique neighborhood has weathered over 150 years of history, evolving from the birthplace of the Chinese American dream to a niche gathering place for LA’s artistic and creative youth.
LA’s Old Chinatown dates back to 1870, when approximately 200 Chinese residents lived on Calle de Los Negros (Black Street). They worked primarily as laundrymen, gardeners, farm and ranch workers, and road builders. By dominating LA’s laundry and agricultural industries, Chinatown flourished between 1890 and 1910, expanding to 15 streets and 200 buildings, with a population exceeding 3,000.
In 1938, under the leadership of Chinese community figure Peter Soo Hoo, local Chinese residents redeveloped the area, creating Central Plaza and naming streets with a distinctly Chinese touch, such as Bamboo Lane, Gin Ling Way, and Chung King Road. In the 1960s, the Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association (CCBA) erected a bronze statue of Dr. Sun Yat-sen in Central Plaza. By the 1980s, new shopping centers and small businesses had emerged along Broadway. Then, on June 15, 2013, a two-meter-tall bronze statue of Bruce Lee was unveiled, solidifying the Chinatown we know today.
First-time visitors to Old Chinatown will be struck by its distinctive architectural style, reminiscent of a fantastical, reimagined version of old Hong Kong. These buildings aren’t strictly traditional Chinese architecture but rather an American interpretation—painted in vivid, almost surreal colors, with deep red and gold pillars and abundant Chinese elements like dragons and lanterns.
When night falls, neon lights illuminate the facades, creating a dreamlike, almost cyberpunk atmosphere that feels both nostalgic and futuristic.
Since 2020, Old Chinatown has transformed into a cultural hub for LA’s indie and artistic crowd. Notable spots include:
- Grand Star Jazz Bar, a venue with strong British rock influences
- Thank You Coffee (aka “Little Cat Café”), selling adorable creative goods
- Tomorrow Today, a laid-back independent bookstore
- General Lee’s, a stylish cocktail bar
- Numerous art galleries and exhibition spaces
Strolling through Old Chinatown, you’ll notice that life here moves at a slower pace than the rest of LA. And for me, that’s its greatest charm.
What makes Old Chinatown truly magical is its seamless fusion of Eastern and Western cultures.
One side reflects traditional Chinese culture, carried forward by old Cantonese and Fujianese immigrants. You’ll find this in places like Jin Long Seafood Restaurant, famous for its authentic dim sum, or Fuzhou Restaurant, a filming location for Jackie Chan movies. The countless Chinese gift shops also add to this old-world charm.
The other side has nothing to do with Chinese culture but is deeply rooted in LA’s contemporary indie scene. This is where you’ll find handmade journals at Thank You Coffee, grassroots literature at Tomorrow Today, and delicate fragrances at Capsule Perfumerie.
Some say that LA’s Chinatown is a relic of the past. But I believe it represents a new beginning, a cultural rebirth where Chinese traditions intertwine with LA’s urban creativity.
This place is not only the birthplace of the Chinese American dream and the “ancestor” of modern Chinese communities like San Gabriel and Monterey Park but also a sanctuary for LA’s artistic youth.
Take a slow walk through Old Chinatown, glance up at the fading Chinese signs, and listen to HYBS’s “Dancing with My Phone” in your headphones. Suddenly, you’ll find yourself stepping into a world that is lazy, nostalgic, retro, and deeply sentimental—a moment suspended in time.